Relics of the Intifada in Al-Aqsa Mosque

July 19, 2009

The photo is a view of the al-Aqsa Mosque as one descends from the mount upon which sits the Dome of the Rock. The Dome of the Rock is a shrine or monument that in its 7th century context announced the primacy of Islam in a city claimed by Jews and Christians, but the actual mosque on the Temple Mount is the structure known as the al-Aqsa Mosque. Here, in contrast to the Dome of the Rock, you find the wide space necessary for congregational prayer.

As we walked through the al-Aqsa Mosque our guide narrated the beginning of the second intifada, which began in 2000 when Israeli prime minister Ariel Sharon made his entrance onto the Temple Mount. This sparked an explosion of violence. I am not interested in wading into the ins and outs of this conflict, but just want to note how it is represented within the al-Aqsa Mosque.

Our guide first pointed out what looked like bullet holes above us in some of the mosaics above the qibla:

You will note the white spots peppered into the mosaic. The guide also pointed out some gashes in the marble columns, attributing them to the weapons used in quelling the protests surrounding the visit of Ariel Sharon to the Temple Mount.

It was already clear that the story of the "al-Aqsa Intifada" had become central to the story of this already-storied mosque. But it got even more emphasis as the guide pointed to a wooden case filled with the shells and cartridges from the weapons used by the Israelis. These were carefully laid out on shelves.

You can see how everything has been laid out.. and it resembles nothing so much as the display of relics in a church. Here is a view of the case as it stands in a central part of the mosque:

It is clearly different from a display of Christian relics in that there are no prayers or other signs of devotion surrounding the case. But within the context of a mosque and the Qurans it is still an odd addition. It points to the use of the al-Aqsa Mosque as more than a religious structure, but as a carrier of nationalistic symbolism as well. To my mind that is an unfortunate, if inevitable, movement.

On leaving the Temple Mount and walking back down into the old city of Jerusalem, I ran into these images taped along a door of a merchant stall. The images are of Israeli actions against Palestinians, and one is of the al-Aqsa Intifada:

I don't claim to see any way out of this, but I do see it as a net negative when religious symols (such as al-Aqsa Mosque) are transposed into political symbols. That process is in a very advanced stage here in Israel.